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FrasersCorners Lock Services
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Person holding a cylindrical door-lock assembly beside an open green glazed door with its lower lock opening exposed. — Seized & Jammed Lock Opening, Bramalea
Person in a dark cap handing a brass key to a smiling person in the open doorway of a pale green door. — Home Lockout Service, Bramalea

Lockouts · Bramalea

Seized & Jammed Lock Opening in Bramalea

The old mortise lock on the front door of the house turns the key halfway and stops with a dull clunk.

Call (289) 901-5079

In plain words

The visit runs in a set order. On the phone you describe what the key does: refuses to turn, spins freely, or works only when the door is pushed. That description tells the locksmith what to bring. At the door, identification and your connection to the property are confirmed. The key, keyway, door fit and strike are examined before anything is forced. The opening uses the least disruptive method the condition allows. Then the failed part is serviced or replaced, the door is adjusted if it caused the jam, and the lock is tested open and closed with every key before the locksmith leaves.

Sound familiar?

The shop's lever handle goes down as usual, but the latch inside the mortise case never pulls back. Staff are waiting on the sidewalk with their coffees, the door is locked, and the handle is simply moving air.

How the visit goes

Seized & Jammed Lock Opening

How the visit goes

Technician in a green jacket pointing a pen at an open notebook while a seated person listens at a wooden table. — Bramalea
Technician in a cap using a yellow drill at the round bore of a dark door, with a black knob below it. — Bramalea
  1. Strike plate, bolt pocket and seal

    The frame side gets as much attention as the door side. The locksmith looks at where the bolt meets the strike plate: scuff marks on the plate's edge, a bolt pocket shallower than the roughly twenty-five millimetres a deadbolt needs, paint or filler that has crept into the pocket, and weatherstripping thick enough to hold the door proud of the frame. A dab of chalk on the bolt end shows exactly where it lands. These findings explain a lock that works with the door open and jams when it is shut, and they point to a chisel, a screwdriver and a strike adjustment rather than to anything inside the cylinder.

  2. When corrosion has taken the core

    Occasionally the plug or shell has rusted or pitted past the point of cleaning, or an earlier forcing has twisted the plug in the shell. Then the cylinder is replaced rather than rebuilt. The locksmith matches the keyway and finish so the new part looks like the old one, and where the keyway allows, pins the new cylinder to the key already on your ring so nothing else in the house changes. If the whole lockset is tired, a replacement deadbolt or lever set goes on in the same visit, with the strike checked to suit it. The old parts are handed over so you can see exactly what failed.

  3. A door that closes without a fight

    If the door was the cause, the hinges, strike and seal have been set so the bolt has room. Keeping it that way is a seasonal habit: each spring and fall, try the lock with the door closed and no pressure on it, and snug the hinge and strike screws if the door has begun to drop. Wood keeps moving with humidity, so a door that swells in August may need a touch on the strike in September. A door that suddenly needs a push to lock is telling you early, while the fix is still a screwdriver and not a seized bolt.

Seized & Jammed Lock Opening

In the van

  • Strike plate and hinge shims

  • Replacement tailpiece or cam

  • Lock de-icer

  • Key blanks and code cutter

  • Electronic contact cleaner

Technician in a cap and hooded sweatshirt using a small screwdriver on the lever handle and lock case of a glass door. — Bramalea

Seized & Jammed Lock Opening

What affects the quote

  1. The drive to you

    Driving time is part of every call, and a property at the end of a long rural road is a different trip from one a few streets over.

  2. Ice and salt on the day

    A cylinder frozen solid or crusted with salt needs thawing, flushing and drying before it can even be diagnosed, and a winter call is quoted with that time in mind.

  3. Keying a new cylinder to your existing key

    Pinning a replacement cylinder to the key already on your ring, or rekeying other doors to match a new key, is extra work per cylinder and simplest to do in the same visit.

What to have ready

  • Does the lock work if you push, pull or lift the door while turning the key?
  • Is the key worn, bent, or a copy made from another copy?
  • Does the key go fully in and refuse to turn, or turn without moving the bolt?
Call (289) 901-5079

Seized & Jammed Lock Opening: questions

Questions
The thumb-turn is stuck from inside and we need that door to get out. What should we do?

Use another exit for now and call. From the inside the fault is usually a bolt pinned by the frame or a bent spindle, both of which the locksmith frees without damage. A main exit door should open from inside without a key or special knowledge, so the repair leaves the door doing exactly that, and if the hardware on it was the wrong type for an exit, a thumb-turn deadbolt is suggested.

Will I need a whole new lock?

Usually not. Most jammed locks are saved by cleaning the cylinder, fitting a small part such as a tailpiece or spring, or adjusting the door so the bolt has room. A new cylinder is fitted when the plug or shell is corroded through or twisted by forcing, matched to your finish and, where possible, pinned to your current key. A complete new lockset is usually a choice you make rather than a requirement, though some internal failures cannot be serviced in place and call for a full replacement.

Does road salt affect door locks?

Yes, especially on side doors near a treated driveway or walkway. Salt spray dries into a crust inside the keyway and around the plug, and each thaw dissolves and re-deposits it deeper. Over a few winters it pits brass and makes the pins drag. The remedy is a flush with contact cleaner, a thorough drying, and a dry lubricant that sheds moisture, followed by rinsing the hardware when the weather allows.

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